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I have a large Horizontal std house eaves run, maybe 35'-40', and when rain really comes down, particularly when the eaves has not been cleaned out recently, I get an overflowing waterfall around the middle of that run. The overflowing waterfall is right where there is a basement window, and it flows into the house and all over the floor, so I have a problem. Even when I clean it out every few months it will happen. Is the type with the Aluminum nails placed through the eaves. I do not know how these nails are installed, if they are pre-drilled and therefore precisely located, or if they can be re-hammered in, etc.

I am specifically interested in the mechanical connection of the nails to the house. I don't know if there is a flat wood board the nails are in, what type of wood or how thick, or if several boards, or if I can re-use the same nail holes, with or without larger diameter nails, or shims, or if I can position other or additional nail hole locations. My problem is re-inforcing and improving, because I can't leave it, considering the position of the window. SO, How do I diagnose and fix the problem wrt the nails.

My guess is I would start by running a string line because its a large run, and thus easily overflows. Where do I start to determine if/how to do this? It is the method of connection of the long Aluminum nails that are through the eaves and through the flat Aluminum trim (all I can see behind the the gutters(eavestroughs)) and what the nails are likely to be fastened into that is of interest. I need to strenghten or add more nails in the middle of the run. I am not sure if there are holes that come in the eavestrough when you buy it (probably at std. Spacing), and/or if I can add holes in the eaves themselves to put the nails through, and what is behind the newer Aluminum trim to which I would attach new nails, or would strengthen.

If its a hit and miss, do I pre-drill, do I need to find the ends of joists, do I need a stud finder, etc, etc. Quoted Text Here Aluminum gutters do not, in my experience, come with prepunched holes. The gutter is held in position and the gutter spikes are driven through the gutter and sleeve (spacer) into the fascia.

If the fascia is 3/4' material, the spike is located such that in penetrates the rafter tail. If the fascia is 2' lumber, the spike can be placed anywhere. I'm assuming that your soffit is constructed of 3/4' pine or redwood and that it has been wrapped with aluminum as part of a re-siding job or a facelift project. The aluminum now obscures the visual clues (nail heads, fascia joints) as to where the rafter tails are. So, you need to find the tails so that new, additional spikes can be driven or you need an attachment that does not rely on the rafter. To find the tails, you might have success with an old-fashioned type stud finder that uses a magnet to find the nails that hold the fascia to the rafter tail. You will need to remove the gutter to do this.

I have never tried a magnetic finder through aluminum, so I can't say whether it will work. Another method of locating the tails is with a drill bit. Remove the gutter, chuck a 1/16' bit into your drill, and drill a hole through the aluminum and fascia directly below an existing spike, about 2' above the bottom edge of the soffit, and where the reinstalled gutter will hide the holes. The idea is to get the feel of what drilling into a rafter tail is like. Now drill a hole to the left or right of an existing spike at a multiple of 16'. It is likely that you will find a tail, as 16' is the common rafter spacing. Look in your attic to confirm this spacing. Engineering Mechanics Dynamics Merriam 7th Pdf Download.